August 16, 2014 § Leave a comment
Molas Pass to Junction Creek Trailhead – 73.9 miles 6 days Total: 127.2 miles 11 days
More often than not the people that give us a ride from/back to the trail go out of their way to do so. The ride from Silverton was no exception. We’d been standing with our thumbs up on the outskirts of town for some time when a guy across the road called out: “He girls, you trying to get back to the CT?” “Yes!” “Come over.” He’d been doing some paint work at the visitor center across the road but was ready to take a break so he took us back to Molas Pass. By 2.30pm on day 6 we were back on the trail and managed to put in 8 miles before setting up camp.
The next day lunch break was exceptionally short as dark clouds were amassing ahead and grumbling ominously. It rained all afternoon. But nature seems more alive when it rains. It’s as if the animals are saying: “Let’s go out, it’s raining, there shouldn’t be any humans outside.” Well, not quite. We startled two deers.
By 4.30pm that day the tent was up. Three hikers, Aquaman, Homebrew and Lighthouse, joined us that night and the following ones. Lighthouse carried a guitar; he played and sang at camp. Music is so much sweeter in the middle of the woods.
Day 8 saw some more rain, and even a hail shower. We found a nice camp spot on the edge of a hill, just sheltered by the trees, with a great view. To the east some mountains were still lit up by the evening light while, over the forest spreading in the valleys below, we could see curtains of rain and lightning. There was thunder, and Lighthouse was playing and singing to the elements. One of those surreal moments.
On day 9 we crossed Indian Trail Ridge in a white mist, buffeted by the wind and soaked through by rain. When the view opened up again we were back in more mountainous terrain. Upon a stony cirque, we were looking down at the beautiful plateau where is nested Taylor Lake, our destination for the day.
We just had time to set up the tent that it started pouring rain. And it kept on and on, all night and the following morning. We were stuck in our little tent, that surprisingly still holds the water well after 5 months of intensive use, pondering our options: waiting it out – spend a whole day inside a tent? Not exactly my idea of a zero day… – or hiking on – yeah, can’t see how getting completely soaked is any better…
But by noon the rain had stopped, the wind had dried the tent and the sky had cleared enough that it looked safe to make a dash for a couple of miles down the trail.
The weather was gorgeous the rest of the day and the next, all the way to Durango.
Ah, Durango. Town. Shower, social media, laundry, food and beer. Not necessarily in that order. How did we do this for 5 months?
127.2 miles in 11 days. That makes an average of 11.6 miles per day. We hiked faster than we thought we would. Well, we dreamt of hour-long after lunch naps in the sun or mid-afternoon reading breaks, but that didn’t happen. We were cold, and what do you do when you’re outdoors and you’re cold? You just keep moving.
So yeah, next time we’re going somewhere warmer. Next time we’re going to the beach. Or not 😉
August 10, 2014 § 1 Comment
Spring Creek Pass to Molas Pass – 53.3 miles 5 days
That question comes up over and over on any of our hiking trip in the US. The answer is always the same. Yes, the Swiss mountains are beautiful, but they’re different. On a hike in Switzerland, sooner or later you see signs of civilization, and not the kind you can easily overlook. Try making abstraction of a whole village across the valley.
I’ll quote two numbers that should help you get the picture. The density of Switzerland is 194,7 inhabitants/km2. Colorado is 19 inhabitants/km2 and more than half the population lives in the Denver area. In the US, and maybe even more so in Colorado, when you go out to lose yourself in the wilderness, that’s what you get. Wilderness as far as the eye can see.
Day after day, we have topped ridges only to discover new valleys beyond, to cross other tundras, to gain views to yet other mountains in the distance. Wilderness is never ending out here.
There’s been plenty of wildlife too. Marmot whistles and pika calls follow our tracks – one marmot was even perched on a trail post! We stumbled onto some ptarmigans. These birds are so well camouflaged that it’s only when we were about to step on them and they moved that we realized there were a mum and her five young ones. Deer and moose have only been brown shapes in the distance so far.
On day 2 we reached the highest point of the CT at 13’271 feet (about 4000m). Why make an easy start, huh? No, because we’re used to altitude measured in meters rather than in feet, we realized quite late what we were up to, but it’s been all right.
The high altitude (over 10’000 feet – 3000m the all time) plus the wind and a sun that’s been hiding behind clouds mean it hasn’t been so warm and has made us want to crawl back in our sleeping bags and not move anymore. But that was also day 3 and by now we know full well a lack of motivation is typical of a 3rd day of hiking so you shouldn’t listen too much to yourself and just push on.
On day 5 the CT and CDT parted ways. We followed the CT and left the CDT meandering south, 928 miles towards Mexico. With the appearance of the Grenadier Range the day before, the scenery had changed, the mountains becoming rockier and more dramatic. Now we dropped down to the Animas River and had a fright crossing the Durango-Silverton railroad tracks. Of course the train had to come our way and blow its whistle when we were walking the few meters of trail that follow the tracks!
Close to Molas Pass and Highway 550, as always when we near a trailhead, we had to wonder if the trail designers went about this way to create a trail:
“Here, pick a random number of miles.”
“Good, let’s make a first draft.”
“Shoot, we’re short of a few miles.”
“No worries, we’ll just make a 1 mile detour before each trailhead and that should do the count.”
It’s either that or they took a sadistic pleasure in imagining hikers hearing and seeing the highway that meant a night in town but rather than heading straight for it, having to go about a ridiculously circumvolunted 1 mile before reaching it. Mental torture, that’s what it is.
It hasn’t been hard to adjust to the slower pace. CT thru-hikers we met have mentioned the conflict they experience: making the necessary daily miles to complete the trail in the time they have and still enjoy it. Although we understand them, we’ve been there, we’re happy we can say: “No, that’s not us, not this time.”
It was even hard for us to comprehend that the number of miles we’ve done in 3 days on this trip, we once did in one single day.
Regarding food we still have to adapt. Now in Silverton we’re still carrying a ridiculously huge amount of food. We packed the quantity we were used to eat while we hiked between 8-10 hours a day and we had been at this for about 5 months. That’s not us anymore, we barely eat half of this.
Other than that we’re doing good. By day 2 we’d slipped right back into our trail routine, it was like we’d never left the trail and it feels good! So back out we go, see you in a couple of days.